Oct 07

Fairlady Silvia project is complete…

Well, moving along the carb setup is now complete for now, I just cannot afford to get it registered yet.
My side hustle is a bust right now, no roommates to fill the extra income a month. It is just a bust as I am trying to get things rolling again.

Here is a current video of it running,

I am now focus on the red car getting it to a point where I need to buy parts which will be a bit. I am not going ebay with the CA18DET setup on the red robin build, only thing might be with an ebay part would be the t3/t4 turbo that was recently rebuilt.

I am just 1 single guy with no help, no support not even from my family, I have a dream that I am working my hardest to make a reality, I want to hit pro-am hard with my s12 and make 1 podium or fully go professional if I feel confident enough to take it further. I want to make a full trip up and down the PNW and PSW with drift events and have fun with a street driven and built machine.

Aug 19

Time for a change up.

I am going to migrate down to 2 Silvia’s instead of 4, with that being said. So here is the plan in the works.

Project Robin build is getting what the Black car had the full CA18det swap. The chassis is actually in better shape including the body harness wiring. So for now I am pulling the full ca18et that sits inside that needs to be rewired from 86.5 to 85 if I was going to get it to work, so instead I am not going to get it to work.

2016-08-18 17.22.14 2016-08-18 17.24.18
Project: Serenity & Fairlady Silvia

Well with coming up with a solution to both chassis, I am going to pull the full sub frame, suspension and motor setup from the Fairlady Silvia and putting it into Serenity. What is wrong with the fairlady silvia chassis you may ask?
Chassis harness had issues since I got it, it took me over a month to trace most of the problems so I figured it is really time to retire the chassis and place the motor set into serenity. Granted it will be a carb setup so the engine harness will not be needed. But this chassis is a clean or nearly clean.

2015-11-22 15.58.37 2015-04-19 13.02.48

When this is done only 2 projects will remain.

Project Robin and Project Serenity, Fairlady silvia chassis will be retired and placed in an area covered. Project Batman aka blackwidow aka nightfury is to be sold as is.

Both projects when completed will be both ready for the streets and drifting fun.

Aug 08

Carb setup for the VG30e… Part 1

2016-08-07 19.34.35

Carb’ing the VG30e is simple, it sounds trivial but it really isn’t. Now why the question is why? Well for one Datsun 510 Owner’s do this often already and this question has been asked on the cs12 forums a few times. Granted you will not get much of a different performance gain, just the satisfaction of doing something off the wall weird and different. It can be a performance changer if you need a full over haul of the EFI harness as it might also improve the old failing electronics.

I don’t intend to boost the vg30 s12 at all. If at most I might add some NOS down the line but there isn’t much I wanted to do from there. Going Carb, is just a different Fuel Delivery system that works.

I am trying to work together a small break apart the efi and install of the carb when I get my tripod in for the GoPro before I proceed with a live video on my process.


  1. Distributor – best solution DUI Performance Distributors, secondary “Rare” Saudi Nissan vg30 distributor.. There is most likely another way but this is simple one.
  2. Fuel Pressure Regulator, you need a 3 way that supports 5psi or lower. I Used the Professional Products 10652 Blue 3-Port Carburetor Fuel Regulator with Return Line
  3. Fuel Pump Re-wire Coming from efi you will also need to rewire the fuel pump to key on power and not ECU. I used the cs12 guide for KA24de swap.
  4. lower intake manifold from an mid 80’s Pathfinder, modified easy with this I sent it over to David Carroll with EE to modify it with adapting a Holley Carb
  5. Spacer 1 inch at least to rise the Carb high enough above the valve covers
  6. 350 CFM holley carb 2BBL (vg30 is an 181ci motor, a 350 is more than enough to cover)
  7. Hood Risers is needed to cover the distributor.
  8. Extra 10FT of 14 – 16 gauge wires,
  9. Distributor hold down clamp  to keep the distributor in place.
  10. Custom throttle cable setup, I am using the old OEM hard line with a bicycle cable as the universal ones do not work right.

Now for the only thing is needed at this point is knowing what wire does what, if you have done the PRW-2 Mod, you want to get the battery and the tach connection down you will be deleting all EFI related. If you want with the DUI Dizzy, the coil is a coil pack located on the top of the dizzy and only need 2 wires, 1 for the battery signal and 1 for the tach signal. 3rd wire you will need to find out the coolant temperature gauge. Using a continuity tester you can locate the wire easily to the body harness in you might need to get under the dash to 2 plugs and find the one that the engine harness connects to. You will delete the ecu and wiring harness completely from the car as it will not be needed, or if you are lazy wrap it in a pile and tuck it away but advised to remove the whole wiring harness.

Key note #1: when you collect the pathfinder intake manifold be sure to grab the mounting nuts and bolts and don’t reuse the SEv6 as they are different in length. I made this mistake that had me go back to pick a part to acquire the right bolts. the studs are recommended to change them out as well as they are a different size on the pathfinder but you can get away with it as you don’t need to massively torque down the intake just follow the FSM procedure for the pathfinder.

Key note #2: When ordering the Dizzy, be sure to have them verify that the vacuum advanced is setup with the correct rotation as I had to send mine back because of the vacuum advanced was setup wrong. These distributors are a clone to the MSD Street Fire Dizzy setup, the coil pack, the module, cap and rotor are replaceable with the MSD replacements they recommend to order theirs. When you also order the dizzy get the live wires. and have them trim about 2 inchs off of the 5 and 6 cyl and 1 inch of the 3 and 4 cyl.

Key note #3: Jetting, if you are unsure what jets to help tune your setup, you can purchase the Percy Adjust – a – jet adapter it will help you narrow down your jet sizing.

Key note #4: EGR, anything that was utilize for the EFI will be deleted, you will need to plug up the various holes including the EGR tube on the passenger side, the narrowband O2 sensor, in it’s place I recommend installing an AEM Wideband for much easier adjustments to the fuel delivery. There will be other weird and strange EFI devices located all around the engine bay that you will also be deleting. The oil breathers you will be deleting and adding filters in its place on the valve covers.

I will update this Howto as I progress and upload the videos as I proceed to go from EFI to carb again for the 3rd time. And if there is anything I am forgetting in this, i will proceed to update the original post.

2016-08-07 19.30.35

Aug 08

Support G, give some drift funds

Keeping Drifting fun, I would love to keep pursuing the passion. Here is how you can help out, I am in the progress of creating T-Shirts and stickers.

Aug 07

Recent Failures has me wanting to quit….

2015-11-21 19.24.42

There is nothing like dealing with failures on a daily basis, I recently had to turn in my plates for all my s12 projects because of Serenity blown head-gasket problem and failure to get another motor up and running. I ended up having to purchase a daily in kind of what I didn’t  want to do but I have to be reliable for “work” and I couldn’t rely on the sev6 because of the weird problems in which I have a feeling I need a new vg30 block on top of the heads I have replaced.

The vg30e is fairly workable at the moment the only problem is a plagued issue with it overheating, I keep getting the same response back from others who have not troubleshot everything multiple times of what they are telling me IE: Thermostat, waterpump, radiator, etc… I am using a 4 core radiator mishimoto now new and works perfectly, thermostat is stock but I have used about 5 different ones in the process of elimination, checked for head gasket or head issues and still no issues and have burped the system multiple times. Water pump is fully functional and working, have replaced it a few times suspecting it wasn’t working properly but that wasn’t it at all.

2015-11-22 15.58.37 and the list goes on and on as I have spent over a year troubleshooting multiple issues that shouldn’t be there. Worse case scenario I will be doing a full how to guide on converting to the carb setup before I fully dismantle the VG30 completely and pull the block and get it down to a machine shop to do what they need to do to find any type of blockage inside both the heads and the block. When I get the block back I should have a solid ground to work from and to rule out my final judgement that there is either blockage caused by rust or internal damage to a point causing more heat then it should be.  As for my dream, shot down to getting back out on the track is shot down I wanted to get up and compete for once in my life time. Looks like I just failed at that too.

What doesn’t help is when I have things planned I get obligated to have to change them and no one is ever willing to support nor ever willing to help me from the ones who “demand” my help all the time as if it’s expected.  I am not one to give up on my dreams, just will be delayed even further due to time and money and Even if nobody believes in me, supports me, or recognizes my effort I will keep going.  This S12 will rise again and happiness will return with alot of fun.

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